Several methods exist for decorating and customizing apparel and other items.
Each process has its own advantages and disadvantages. Product quality, start-up costs, and learning curve vary by method. Below is a description of each of the most common decorating methods.
In embroidery, designs are stitched onto the substrate with a needle and thread. Images and logos can be embroidered on a wide variety of materials and colors, producing professional-looking, long-lasting products.
There are, however, drawbacks to this method. Because of the difficulty of using thread to produce shading, logos may need to be altered. It is also difficult to embroider small text and to achieve exact color-matching. Embroidery carries a steep learning curve. It can be more time-consuming and less cost-effective than other decorating options. Start-up costs vary widely, but include embroidery machines ranging in price from several hundred dollars (for hobby/enthusiast machines) to several thousand dollars for professional-grade models. Software for computer-aided embroidery can also cost anywhere from $200-$2000. |
In screen printing a piece of fabric is stretched over a wood or metal frame, creating a screen. A stencil is then created on the screen, which is placed over the substrate. Ink is forced through the open areas of the screen, creating an image on the substrate. This process is repeated for each color of the design being applied.Capable of producing detailed designs and logos, screen printing is usually more cost-effective than embroidery. Not only can images be produced on any color garment, but textures and effects (3-D, reflection, etc.) can also be applied. Screen printing also offers a quicker turn-around time on large orders. Set-up and clean-up for screen printing can be extensive and messy, limiting the number of colors for practical use. Also, some materials are not compatible with the process. Given the time and material used for each step of the process, screen printing is much better suited to large-volume jobs and is not efficient or economical for short-run or sample production. Equipment costs for starting a small screen printing operation are in the $2000-$7000 range, and there is a steep learning curve. |
Heat printing is a decorating process which uses heat-applied materials and a heat press to transfer designs and images onto various items. There is a wide variety of heat printing processes, such as transfer papers, plastisol/screen printed transfers, dye sublimation, and print/cut applications. |
Using a desktop color laser copier/printer or inkjet printer, full color designs are printed onto specialized transfer papers and heat applied to apparel or fabrics. This method is quick and inexpensive, allowing almost instant customization and requiring limited inventory of goods. Photo-quality images can be quickly printed and applied to garments.
While this method offers the advantage of high-quality images, it has some drawbacks. Standard transfer paper will not show white images on any garment. Because most desktop printers do not have white ink, any areas which show white on the transfer paper will show as the garment color after application. This can be avoided by using special paper for dark garments, though this paper is more expensive and has a heavier feel than standard transfer paper. Also, unless properly trimmed, most transfer papers will leave an outline of excess coating around the image when transferred onto garments. Precise (and often time-consuming) trimming must be done before application. Furthermore, transfer paper is not as long-lasting as other decorating options.
Start-up costs are low, as only photo-editing software, a desktop printer, and a heat press are needed. There is virtually no learning curve.
Often used for production of letters and numbers on T-shirts and jerseys, this method involves heat application of designs cut from vinyl, which is available in a variety of colors, textures, and effects (i.e. reflective, glow-in-the-dark, etc.). These designs can be pre-ordered from a manufacturer or custom-cut in-house using vinyl cutting equipment. Heat transfer material images are sturdy and long-lasting, and can be applied easily (using a heat press) to a number of different garments and accessories in any quantity.
Photo-quality designs cannot be applied using this method and each design must be individually cut and weeded (excess vinyl removed from around the image). Complex patterns thus can prove problematic.
Start-up costs include a heat press and supplies. For smaller operations an inventory of pre-cut letters and numbers may prove sufficient, but as the business expands the need for in-house production may present itself. Vinyl cutters can range in price from $500-$2000, and need to be stocked with rolls of vinyl in various colors.
Digital printing describes any process which produces long-lasting full color transfers. Extremely versatile, digital printing allows images and graphics with fine details to be applied to both light and dark-colored garments. Digital printing options include printable heat transfer material, dye sublimation, and Direct to garment printing.
Combining the durability of heat transfer vinyl with the ability to produce high-quality images, this method involves using a printer/cutter to produce an image which is then weeded and heat applied. Designs can be custom-ordered from a manufacturer or produced using in-house equipment. Great for low-quantity jobs and personalization; durable full color images can be applied to garments and accessories of any color.
For in-house equipment, start-up costs can be quite high and the equipment can come with a steep learning curve.
Using ink printed on transfer paper and applied with heat and pressure, this technique prints directly onto polyesters and specially-coated hard goods, such as mugs and bags. In sublimation the design is actually dyed onto the substrate, producing an extremely vivid and durable transfer.
Dye sublimation provides sharp, colorful images with a soft feel, allowing fabric to stay light and breathable. Images produced with sublimation are highly customizable, making this method great for personalization and short-run jobs. The process can also be used on a variety of specially-coated hard goods, such as ceramics, metal, and glass.
Because sublimation is limited to use on white or light-colored materials and because the garment must be made of or coated with polyester, it is not an ideal method for use on garments. Sublimated garments are produced using a dye, not an ink, so not all printers will work well with the process, and sublimation printers require a good deal of maintenance. In addition, inks can be expensive and require the use of color-correction software, and direct matches to Pantone Color Matching System (PMS) colors can be difficult.
Start-up costs for dye sublimation are fairly low. A computer, graphics software, printer, special dye sublimation printer cartridges, and a heat press are needed, and many of these items will already be found in a decorating shop. Depending on the operator’s previous experience, the dye sublimation learning curve can be quite steep.
In direct-to-garment printing, an image or logo is printed directly onto a garment and is then cured using a heat press or dryer. Allowing quick order fulfillment, DTG is a good way to augment a screen-printing or embroidery business and is great for small jobs. DTG produces brilliant colors and, unlike screen printing, it offers the ability to print color blends and transitions.
Direct to garment printing requires virtually no learning curve, but equipment can be costly. Printers can cost anywhere from $6000 to $20,000 and require daily maintenance.